Fishing

I’ve gone and taken up a new hobby. It involves fishing. Not me fishing of course, I tried that once and as I didn’t immediately master it, I dropped it from things I might do twice. It does turn out though that I’m really good at sitting in my car and watching others fish. I mentioned the other day about my surprise at seeing a relatively young and attractive woman fishing, it turns out I was correct as she was an anomaly but as I’m not here to watch women I don’t mind. I have no idea what anyone is saying and know they look at me slightly bemused, perhaps they even discuss who this strange tourist in his car watching them is. Perhaps they don’t give a shit. This being Greece they likely don’t give a shit.

I’ve so far not seen anyone catch anything. I’ve also not spent hours sitting and watching so likely that’s more of a reason than much else. It got exciting once when it looked as if I was about to witness my first catch but all that happened was someone caught their other line. As I write that sentence it makes me think I should probably go out and make some friends. Relative excitement shall we say.

It could be that it’s just fun relaxing by the sea. I know I’m sitting in the car but genuinely I quite enjoy sitting in cars by places. I don’t always feel it necessary to get out. What am I going to do, walk around for a bit, stand somewhere and watch or maybe even sit somewhere and watch. At least I’ve got my comfy car seat and a holder for my beer. It’s much easier to sit with the laptop and write this in a car too. Maybe I should get a chair like the fishermen and sit beside my car. I might feel the necessity to buy a fishing rod then though and that would change the entire nature of this experience. When I get bored and need an upgrade maybe.

One of the fishermen is vigorously making himself a frappe and watching me. This is Greece after all, nosey bastards. It’s really hard making national stereotypes when everyone acts as they feel fit. Perhaps that can be a Greek stereotype, doing whatever the hell they want. Why must we take the unknown out of the world by putting people in boxes though. The unknown is scary I guess, it makes us feel safe to box it up. Like being scared of the dark, the unknown without lights. If we can box an entire people then what can be safer than that. It seems a little ignorant though, and I can say that as someone who has done that far too often in the past. It might just turn out people are people. What a whole new world of discovery that would involve. But anyway, enough of this. Back to the fishing.

Yassou Old Friend

September along with April and May is probably the best time to be in Greece. The second half of September in particular. The most extreme elements of the Greek summer have subsided; the heat, the tourists and the stressed Greeks trying to make money. This year is a little different but it seems to be following the usual pattern. There is a lot in this country that can frustrate a person, Greek or non-Greek, but it has more than enough to keep bringing people back. Secretly I love the place more than I’m frustrated by it but don’t tell anyone, sentiment like that gets in the way of being able to complain which is a favourite past time out here.

The plan is to fix up a boat. I’ll be sanding, painting, servicing engines and trying to work out why there’s water in the sail drive. The last will be the most challenging mentally but I’m not looking forward to being stuck down in the tiny engine compartments under the baking sun trying not to flood the engines with my sweat. It’ll be a good boat learning experience though. I’m a believer in the holistic approach to life so it is important to understand sailing isn’t just trying to catch the perfect angle to the wind with our sails or drinking gin and tonic in the sun. Watching everyone on their boats doing exactly that in the port today did make me a little envious though, there is something slightly unnatural about a boat out of water.

These thing I can worry about tomorrow though. Today has been about catching up on and ruining any notion of a sleep pattern as well as getting my bearings in this new place. In a way I’m back where I belong. I know despite my desires for a normal life I thrive in new lands. I enjoy finding my bearings and working out what is going on. I’m not always the best at chatting with everyone but I wouldn’t say I’m unsocial either. I got a good deal on a car rental and spent too much in the supermarket on food. In response I decided not to eat dinner in the taberna and ate a couple of kebabs washed down with a couple of beers in my car while watching people fish. It doesn’t sound like it should be a stand out thing but there was a reasonably attractive woman on her own fishing. It stood out because usually it’s old or middle aged couples and single men doing this kind of thing. It’s not a big thing and perhaps a subtle example but somehow Greece manages to find a way to provide moments which make you take notice. It’s what makes the place so interesting, and admittedly occasionally frustrating.

It would be nice to be out on the water though. I have some slight ideas of plans forming but will keep it all open. Jumping on a boat would certainly be an option I’m open to once I finish these repairs. Anyone going to the Canary Islands? I will say though as my feet and ankles experience that familiar feeling, I don’t miss mosquitoes when I’m not here. They do serve a purpose, I’m not someone who thinks they should all die but certainly I’m ready to discover the secret to what it is they’re attracted to and make the necessary changes in my life. The boat is at the far end of a huge boatyard and I’m hoping they don’t know I’m there. There’s nothing worse than one of those night sleeps. I’m sure it’ll give me something to complain about. Well, it is Greece, you have to do something in between all the enjoying life.

The Gibraltar Orca

With Extinction Rebellion (ER) finally drawing real ire from the Government with their blockade of the propaganda master Rupert Murdoch, another species has seemingly hit the headlines for raising awareness of it’s own plight this week. The Straits of Gibraltar Orcas have been playing with sailing boats. Apparently unsuspecting sailors have found themselves suddenly turning half circle in response to orca whales ramming their vessels. They have been reported too as taking chunks out of the rudders of these same boats, leaving them to float uncontrolled in what is one of the busiest shipping lanes in the world. What precisely is leading the orca to do this is currently unknown to us.

Naturally there are plenty of hypothesis. Orca have been known to play with boats in the past. They are of the dolphin family and anyone who has sailed as a pod of dolphin join you, will know they are inquisitive and from our human perspective having fun. Having watched a dog lead me through it’s territory in Nepal once I have been curious whether dolphin are simply doing the same but really I have no idea. When playing with boats apparently orca have gently bitten on to the rudders and been pulled along like skateboarders in movies. This is the nice idea, their playing has simply got out of control.

Likely the reasoning is far more sinister. Orca are highly intelligent creatures and have found themselves in the Straits of Gibraltar struggling to survive. Their numbers are depleting with young calves invariably not living to adulthood. There are numerous potential reasons for this but it is a safe bet to suggest the depleted numbers of bluefin tuna, which form the orcas diet, will be having an enormous affect. This is a story we’re seeing repeated world wide with different animals in the sea and on land. With their natural habitat changing, or simply being destroyed, their movements and behaviour are evolving too. In the case of the orca their numbers are decreasing dramatically. In this stretch of water too, as happens across the world in similar situations, the local fishermen who catch the tuna see the orca as competition. While the sailing boats may traditionally be excited to see the whales, the fishermen see a challenge. There are reports of various whales having large cuts on their dorsal fins and across their bodies, it is argued these are the result of clashes.

The large volume of marine traffic in this area has been argued as a factor too. The relative silence in this area during Covid-19 restrictions has now ceased and it coincided with an increase in these ‘attacks’ in the months of July and August. At no point have they been seen as a threat to people but more that they have been after the boats. It is also unclear how much of a new thing this is, if they have been fighting fishing vessels it would likely be unreported and larger ships unknown. Perhaps though like ER they realised they need to make their presence known to those who might actually report and raise awareness of the situation. Not that these sailors can be accused of being the Rupert Murdoch’s of the sea but more they have evidently begun actions which have brought their plight to the worlds attention with an immediacy ER would be proud of. It is just one more example of the damage being done to an earth we’re dangerous incapable of living in with the kind of harmony our dominant position must demand. We seem happy to ignore the destruction we can see on land, it appears that now the orca have had enough of our ignorance of what goes on below too.